Europe, North America

 

All but one piece is in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum, NY who displayed most of them together in 2018 in an exhibition – The Body Transformed.

 

The museum noted the uses of these pieces:  for ritual display, social status, marks of a rite of passage, for adornment, pleasure, fun

and as a generator of happiness and contentment because of their exquisite workmanship.

 

 

A young woman and a creature dressed in Shane Leane’s version of a yashmak  can be seen here engaged with one other.

The young woman stood there quite a while…….

 

 

 

 

 

 

A Goldsmith in His Shop, 1449, oil on oak panel. Petrus Christus, Netherlandish, active by 1544, died 1575/76. Robert Lehman Collection, Metropolitan Museum, NY

On the right a mirror reflecting two men and a falcon (a symbol, the museum notes, of pride and greed).

 

 

 

 

Belt, silver with traces of gilding and enamel; mid-14th century; thought to be Genoan, Italy

 

 

 

 

Elements of a necklace, gold, cloisonne metal, found in Granada, 15th to 16th century, Spain

 

 

 

Ceremonial gorget (neck armour), c.1600, steel, gold.  French

 

 

Gold and amethyst necklace, 1830, made in Paris

 

 

Gold and amethyst parure, 1830; made in Paris

 

 

 

Stereographic view  through a daguerreotype of two nude women wearing nothing but pearls and tiaras, 1840s. French

 

 

 

Necklace, gold, enamel and diamonds, 1870: Europe and the four seasons.  Eugene Fontenay, 1823-1887, French

 

 

 

Grapevine necklace, gold and glass, c. 1880.  Made in Rome.  Castellani, 1814-1930, Italian

 

 

Corsage piece of diamonds, gold and silver, 1880-1895, New York.  Tiffany & Co.

 

 

Dragonfly brooch, 1890, made in Paris of gold, diamonds and enamel. Designed for Boucheron by Edgar Bense, Danish, died 1923

 

 

Chatelaine, 1893, silver, red glass, black beads made by the Gorham Manufacturing Company (1831-present) in 1883 in Providence, Rhode Island.

 

 

Enamel necklace of gold, amethysts, opals and enamel, 1897-99.  Made in Paris.  Rene Jules Lalique, 1860-1945, French

 

 

Moth pendant, 1900, gold, champleve enamel, citrines, carved horn.  Made in Paris.  Lucien Gaillard, 1861-1942

 

 

 

Necklace, seed pearls, gold, mother-of-pearl, c. 1900.  American or European

 

 

 

Enamel pendant with diamonds, opal and pearl, 1901 made in Paris.  Rene-Jules Lalique, 1860-1945, French

 

 

 

Necklace with opals, gold, and enamel, 1904, made in New York.  Louis Comfort Tiffany, 1848-1933, American

 

 

 

Queen Anne’s lace hair ornament, silver, copper, opals, demntoid garnets, garnets, enamel, 1904, made in New York.

  Louis Comfort Tiffany, 1848-1943, American.  Exhibited in 2019/2020

 

 

 

 

Queen Anne’s lace hair ornament, gold, silver, boulder opals, black opals, demantoid garnets, rubies, enamels, c. 1904.

Louis C. Tiffany, 1848-1933, American. Exhibited in 2019/2020

 

 

 

Brooch, gold, sapphire, pearls, emeralds, enamel and probably horn, 1905.  Florence Koehler, 1861-1944, American

 

 

 

Necklace, moonstones, sapphire, platinum.  Made in New York c. 1910.  Louis Comfort Tiffany, 1848-1933, American

 

 

 

Diamond brooch with fish, 1905, gold, enamel, diamonds, glass  made in Paris.  Rene-Jules Lalique, 1860-1945, French

 

 

 

Necklace with diamonds and pearls, 1905, diamonds, natural pearls, platinum made in New York by Dreicer & Co., American, 1868-1927

 

 

 

Sautoir necklace with opals, gold and enamel, 1908.  Made in New York, Marcus and Company, 1892-1942, America

 

 

 

Dress ornament, jade, onyx, diamonds, enamel, platinum, c. 1923.  Georges Fouquet, 1862-1957, French

 

 

 

Brooch, gold, enamel, moonstones.  Ferdinand Hauser, 1864-1919, Austrian

 

 

 

Bracelet, c. 1917, seed pearls, gold, rubies.  Eda Lord Dickson, 1876-1926, American

 

 

 

Bracelet, 1907-1915, gold, opals and semi-precious stones; designed by Louis C. Tiffany,  1848-1933, American. 

Tiffany & Company, American founded 1837.

 

 

 

Necklace, 1925-35, pearls, emeralds, coloured stones, gold.  Marie Zimmerman, 1879-1972, American.   Exhibited in 2019/2020

 

 

 

 

 

5-strand pearl necklace, 1928, natural pearls, diamonds, platinum.  Made by Cartier (French founded 1847) in London.  Smithsonian Natural Museum of Natural History, Washington, DC

 

 

 

Brooch, 1930, gold, sapphires, rubies, diamonds.  Raymond Yard, 1885-1964, American

 

 

 

Belt with clasped hands, 1934, silk, plastic. Made in France for Elsa Schiaparelli, 1890-1973

 

 

 

The Jealous Husband Necklace, 1940, brass wire.  Alexander Calder, 1898-1976, American

 

 

 

 

 

Necklace, c. 1940, bakelite, cellulose acetate and metal.  Unknown maker.  Exhibited in 2019/2020

 

 

 

 

Brooch, brass, c. 1940.  Alexander Calder, 1898-1976, American.  Exhibited in 2019/2020

 

 

 

Collar, 1949, bronze.  Art Smith, 1917-1982, American

 

 

 

Plexi Pectoral, plexiglass and metal, 1971.

Carolyn Kriegman, 1933-1999, American.  Philadelphia Art Museum on display, 2019/2020

 

 

Necklace/belt, 1973/74, sterling silver, enamel. Elsa Peretti, American born Italy, 1940

 

 

 

 

Choker #35, 1977, gold, silver and lacquered copper electrical wire.  Mary Lee Hu, American, born 1944.  Exhibited in 2019/2020

 

 

 

 

Earrings, glass, rhinestones, metal, 1983/84.  Yves St. Laurent, 1936-2008, French

 

 

 

Choker #70, gold, 1985.  Mary Lee Ho, born 1943.  Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

 

 

 

Incubus necklace, silver, copper, glass, baroque pearls, human sperm, 1987.  Simon Costin, British, born 1963

 

 

 

Sticks and stones and words breastplate, 1992, silver, pencil, erasers, stone, coins, leather, horsehair.  Kiff Slemmons, American born 1944

 

 

Bracelet, polyester, epoxy, resin, 1995.  Peter Chang, 1945-2017, British

 

 

Oh I am Precious #7 necklace; mizuhiki (paper cord), canvas, 1986.

 

 

 

Night in the City necklace, 1990, glass and metal beads, PVC, photo and laminated print, synthetic suede, nickel silver on thread, wire and monofilament

Joyce J. Scott, American born 1948. Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Brooch:  Hommage to Cy Twombly and Joseph Cornell, 1994, gold, cloisonne enamel, silver, tourmaline, coral, agate, Mexican opal, pearl. 

William Harper, American born 1944

 

 

 

Crown of Thorns, 1996/97, silver. Designed by for Shaune Leane, British born 1967 for Alexander McQueen

 

 

 

Jaw, 1997/98, silver-plated aluminium.

Designed by Shaune Leane, British born 1967 for Alexander McQueen

 

 

 

Brooch with gold thread and niello, 1999.  Giovanni Corvaja, Italian born 1971

 

 

 

Yashmak, aluminium, Swarowski crystal, 2000, edition 2017.  Shawn Leane, British born 1969 for Alexander McQueen, British

 

 

 

Necklace, paper, paint, coal, glue, linen, 2011.  Attai Chen, Israeli born 1979