2. North American fashion design: eveningwear 1940 to the present

 

The Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art is tracking the evolution of American style from 1940 to the present. 

 

These are the evening outfits they chose to exhibit.

 

The lack of embellishment is striking.  On the majority of creations, there is no embellishment at all:  and all the drama is restricted to the cut, the form, the fabric used. 

 

 

Donna Karan’s ‘Seven Easy Pieces’ is emblematic of one influential view of what  America fashion is.

 

In her first collection for her own label, she proposed a modular wardrobe

both elegant and functional to serve at various times of day for various functions. 

Co-ordinated separates of bodysuits, trousers, skirts and jackets.

 

A look which any woman can adapt to her needs.

 

 

 

 

Ensemble, autumn/winter 1986-86; jacket of camel felted wool broadcloth, bodysuit of black cotton-elastane jersey, skirt of gold synthetic knit embroidered with gold paillettes. 

Donna Karan, American born 1948.  Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

 

 

 

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Ensemble, autumn/winter 1972-73.  Skirt and jacket of camel wool double-knit, shirt of camel silk jersey embroidered with gold paillettes. 

Norman Norrell, 1900-1972, American.  Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

 

 

 

 

Ensemble, autumn/winter 2021-22; dress of gold silk crepe with gold paillettes; coat of camel wool melton lined with gold paillette embroidery. 

Michael Kors, American born 1959, loan to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY in 2021

 

 

 

 

 

Dress, spring/summer 2020; gold viscose jersey with gold paillettes. 

 Marc Jacobs, American born 1963 loan to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY in 2021

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dress, spring/summer 2018, black rayon jersey and black synthetic ?. 

Loaned by Tom Ford, American born 1961.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ensemble, autumn/winter 2019-2020;  black silk cotton jersey. 

Rick Owens, American born 1961.  Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

 

 

 

 

Dress, autumn/winter 1996/97, black rayon jersey. 

Calvin Klein, American born 1942.  Private loan to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2021

 

 

 

 

 

Ensemble, c. 2005, black silk georgette. 

Loaned by Jean Yu, American born Korea     to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2021

 

 

 

 

Dress, autumn/winter 2001/2002, black silk jersey. 

Loaned by Narciso Rodriguez, American born 1961 to the Metropolitan Museu of Art in 2021

 

 

 

 

 

Dress, autumn/winter, 1989/90, black wool-Lycra jersey pieced with nude silk chiffon and edged with black silk satin. 

Geoffrey Beene, 1927-2004, American.  Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY

 

 

 

 

 

Autumn/winter 2004/05, “Vertebrae” dress, black wool crepe. 

Ralph Rucci, American born 1957 loan to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY in 2021

 

 

 

 

 

Ensemble, autumn/winter 2020/21, black nylon plain weave and black synthetic tulle. 

Vergil Abloh, American  born 1981, Loaned by the eponymous company to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY in 2021

 

 

 

 

Dress, autumn/winter 2019/2020; blue silk organza. 

Rodarte, American founded 2004; Kate Mulleavy, American  born 1979 and Laura Mulleavy, American born on loan to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2021 

 

 

 

 

 

Dress, autumn/winter 2020-21, ?material?.

Collina Strada, American founded 2008.  Hillary Tamour, American born 1987 loan to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2021

 

 

 

 

Dress, autumn/winter 2020/21, blue silk taffeta. 

Oscar de la Renta founded 1965.  Laura Kim born Korea 198 ,Fernando Garcia, American born 1986 loaned by the Oscar de la Renta Archive to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2021

 

 

 

 

Ensemble, autumn 2020/21, polychrome plaid silk taffeta. 

Loaned by Christopher John Rogers, American born 1993 to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2021

 

 

 

The designer is Zac Posen, American born 1980.  All other details TBD