Jewels 3


from an exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum, NY in 2018



Europe, North America


Jewellery, from the collections of the Metropolitan Museum, NY,  from several civilizations and time periods,  for its various functions:

ritual, display of social status, to mark a rite of passage, for adornment, pleasure, or fun.

Also for the function of beauty as a generator of happiness and contentment. The beauty not only of the object itself but also of the exquisite workmanship.



A young woman and a creature dressed in Shane Leane’s version of a yashmak (below) can be seen here engaged with one other.

The young woman stood there quite a while…….





All but one piece of jewellery in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum; 

and most in an exhibition in the winter of 2018:  The Body Transformed.




A Goldsmith in His Shop, 1449, oil on oak panel. Petrus Christus, Netherlandish, active by 1544, died 1575/76. Robert Lehman Collection, Metropolitan Museum, NY

On the right a mirror reflecting two men and a falcon (a symbol, the museum notes, of pride and greed).





Belt, silver with traces of gilding and enamel; mid-14th century; thought to be Genoan, Italy




Elements of a necklace, gold, cloisonne metal, found in Granada, 15th to 16th century, Spain




Ceremonial gorget (neck armour), c.1600, steel, gold.  French



Gold and amethyst necklace, 1830, made in Paris



Gold and amethyst parure, 1830; made in Paris




Stereographic view  through a daguerreotype of two nude women wearing nothing but pearls and tiaras, 1840s. French




Necklace, gold, enamel and diamonds, 1870: Europe and the four seasons.  Eugene Fontenay, 1823-1887, French




Grapevine necklace, gold and glass, c. 1880.  Made in Rome.  Castellani, 1814-1930, Italian



Corsage piece of diamonds, gold and silver, 1880-1895, New York.  Tiffany & Co.



Dragonfly brooch, 1890, made in Paris of gold, diamonds and enamel. Designed for Boucheron by Edgar Bense, Danish, died 1923



Chatelaine, 1893, silver, red glass, black beads made by the Gorham Manufacturing Company (1831-present) in 1883 in Providence, Rhode Island.



Enamel necklace of gold, amethysts, opals and enamel, 1897-99.  Made in Paris.  Rene Jules Lalique, 1860-1945, French



Moth pendant, 1900, gold, champleve enamel, citrines, carved horn.  Made in Paris.  Lucien Gaillard, 1861-1942




Necklace, seed pearls, gold, mother-of-pearl, c. 1900.  American or European




Enamel pendant with diamonds, opal and pearl, 1901 made in Paris.  Rene-Jules Lalique, 1860-1945, French




Necklace with opals, gold, and enamel, 1904, made in New York.  Louis Comfort Tiffany, 1848-1933, American




Queen Anne’s lace hair ornament, silver, copper, opals, demntoid garnets, garnets, enamel, 1904, made in New York.

  Louis Comfort Tiffany, 1848-1943, American.  Exhibited in 2019/2020






Queen Anne’s lace hair ornament, gold, silver, boulder opals, black opals, demantoid garnets, rubies, enamels, c. 1904.

Louis C. Tiffany, 1848-1933, American. Exhibited in 2019/2020




Brooch, gold, sapphire, pearls, emeralds, enamel and probably horn, 1905.  Florence Koehler, 1861-1944, American




Necklace, moonstones, sapphire, platinum.  Made in New York c. 1910.  Louis Comfort Tiffany, 1848-1933, American




Diamond brooch with fish, 1905, gold, enamel, diamonds, glass  made in Paris.  Rene-Jules Lalique, 1860-1945, French




Necklace with diamonds and pearls, 1905, diamonds, natural pearls, platinum made in New York by Dreicer & Co., American, 1868-1927



Sautoir necklace with opals, gold and enamel, 1908.  Made in New York, Marcus and Company, 1892-1942, America




Dress ornament, jade, onyx, diamonds, enamel, platinum, c. 1923.  Georges Fouquet, 1862-1957, French




Brooch, gold, enamel, moonstones.  Ferdinand Hauser, 1864-1919, Austrian






Bracelet, 1907-1915, gold, opals and semi-precious stones; designed by Louis C. Tiffany,  1848-1933, American. 

Tiffany & Company, American founded 1837.






Necklace, 1925-35, pearls, emeralds, coloured stones, gold.  Marie Zimmerman, 1879-1972, American.   Exhibited in 2019/2020






5-strand pearl necklace, 1928, natural pearls, diamonds, platinum.  Made by Cartier (French founded 1847) in London.  Smithsonian Natural Museum of Natural History, Washington, DC





Brooch, 1930, gold, sapphires, rubies, diamonds.  Raymond Yard, 1885-1964, American





Belt with clasped hands, 1934, silk, plastic. Made in France for Elsa Schiaparelli, 1890-1973




The Jealous Husband Necklace, 1940, brass wire.  Alexander Calder, 1898-1976, American







Necklace, c. 1940, bakelite, cellulose acetate and metal.  Unknown maker.  Exhibited in 2019/2020






Brooch, brass, c. 1940.  Alexander Calder, 1898-1976, American.  Exhibited in 2019/2020




Collar, 1949, bronze.  Art Smith, 1917-1982, American






Plexi Pectoral, plexiglass and metal, 1971.

Carolyn Kriegman, 1933-1999, American.  Philadelphia Art Museum on display, 2019/2020





Necklace/belt, 1973/74, sterling silver, enamel. Elsa Peretti, American born Italy, 1940






Choker #35, 1977, gold, silver and lacquered copper electrical wire.  Mary Lee Hu, American, born 1944.  Exhibited in 2019/2020





Earrings, glass, rhinestones, metal, 1983/84.  Yves St. Laurent, 1936-2008, French




Choker #70, gold, 1985.  Mary Lee Ho, born 1943.  Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY




Incubus necklace, silver, copper, glass, baroque pearls, human sperm, 1987.  Simon Costin, British, born 1963




Sticks and stones and words breastplate, 1992, silver, pencil, erasers, stone, coins, leather, horsehair.  Kiff Slemmons, American born 1944



Bracelet, polyester, epoxy, resin, 1995.  Peter Chang, 1945-2017, British




Oh I am Precious #7 necklace; mizuhiki (paper cord), canvas, 1986.





Night in the City necklace, 1990, glass and metal beads, PVC, photo and laminated print, synthetic suede, nickel silver on thread, wire and monofilament.  Joyce J. Scott, American born 1948




Brooch:  Hommage to Cy Twombly and Joseph Cornell, 1994, gold, cloisonne enamel, silver, tourmaline, coral, agate, Mexican opal, pearl.  William Harper, American born 1944




Crown of Thorns, 1996/97, silver. Designed by for Shaune Leane, British born 1967 for Alexander McQueen: in memory




Jaw, 1997/98, silver-plated aluminium. Designed by for Shaune Leane, British born 1967 for Alexander McQueen: in memory




Brooch with gold thread and niello, 1999.  Giovanni Corvaja, Italian born 1971



Yashmak, aluminium, Swarowski crystal, 2000, edition 2017.  Shawn Leane, British born 1969 for Alexander McQueen, British:  In memory





Necklace, paper, paint, coal, glue, linen, 2011.  Attai Chen, Israeli born 1979