Europe, North America
Jewellery, from the collections of the Metropolitan Museum, NY, from several civilizations and time periods, for its various functions:
ritual, display of social status, to mark a rite of passage, for adornment, pleasure, or fun.
Also for the function of beauty as a generator of happiness and contentment. The beauty not only of the object itself but also of the exquisite workmanship.
A young woman and a creature dressed in Shane Leane’s version of a yashmak (below) can be seen here engaged with one other.
The young woman stood there quite a while…….
All but one piece of jewellery in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum;
and most in an exhibition in the winter of 2018: The Body Transformed.
A Goldsmith in His Shop, 1449, oil on oak panel. Petrus Christus, Netherlandish, active by 1544, died 1575/76. Robert Lehman Collection, Metropolitan Museum, NY
On the right a mirror reflecting two men and a falcon (a symbol, the museum notes, of pride and greed).
Belt, silver with traces of gilding and enamel; mid-14th century; thought to be Genoan, Italy
Elements of a necklace, gold, cloisonne metal, found in Granada, 15th to 16th century, Spain
Ceremonial gorget (neck armour), c.1600, steel, gold. French
Gold and amethyst necklace, 1830, made in Paris
Gold and amethyst parure, 1830; made in Paris
Stereographic view through a daguerreotype of two nude women wearing nothing but pearls and tiaras, 1840s. French
Necklace, gold, enamel and diamonds, 1870: Europe and the four seasons. Eugene Fontenay, 1823-1887, French
Grapevine necklace, gold and glass, c. 1880. Made in Rome. Castellani, 1814-1930, Italian
Corsage piece of diamonds, gold and silver, 1880-1895, New York. Tiffany & Co.
Dragonfly brooch, 1890, made in Paris of gold, diamonds and enamel. Designed for Boucheron by Edgar Bense, Danish, died 1923
Chatelaine, 1893, silver, red glass, black beads made by the Gorham Manufacturing Company (1831-present) in 1883 in Providence, Rhode Island.
Enamel necklace of gold, amethysts, opals and enamel, 1897-99. Made in Paris. Rene Jules Lalique, 1860-1945, French
Moth pendant, 1900, gold, champleve enamel, citrines, carved horn. Made in Paris. Lucien Gaillard, 1861-1942
Necklace, seed pearls, gold, mother-of-pearl, c. 1900. American or European
Enamel pendant with diamonds, opal and pearl, 1901 made in Paris. Rene-Jules Lalique, 1860-1945, French
Necklace with opals, gold, and enamel, 1904, made in New York. Louis Comfort Tiffany, 1848-1933, American
Queen Anne’s lace hair ornament, silver, copper, opals, demntoid garnets, garnets, enamel, 1904, made in New York. Louis Comfort Tiffany, 1848-1943, American
Brooch, gold, sapphire, pearls, emeralds, enamel and probably horn, 1905. Florence Koehler, 1861-1944, American
Necklace, moonstones, sapphire, platinum. Made in New York c. 1910. Louis Comfort Tiffany, 1848-1933, American
Diamond brooch with fish, 1905, gold, enamel, diamonds, glass made in Paris. Rene-Jules Lalique, 1860-1945, French
Necklace with diamonds and pearls, 1905, diamonds, natural pearls, platinum made in New York by Dreicer & Co., American, 1868-1927
Sautoir necklace with opals, gold and enamel, 1908. Made in New York, Marcus and Company, 1892-1942, America
Dress ornament, jade, onyx, diamonds, enamel, platinum, c. 1923. Georges Fouquet, 1862-1957, French
Brooch, gold, enamel, moonstones. Ferdinand Hauser, 1864-1919, Austrian
5-strand pearl necklace, 1928, natural pearls, diamonds, platinum. Made by Cartier (French founded 1847) in London. Smithsonian Natural Museum of Natural History, Washington, DC
Belt with clasped hands, 1934, silk, plastic. Made in France for Elsa Schiaparelli, 1890-1973
The Jealous Husband Necklace, 1940, brass wire. Alexander Calder, 1898-1976, American
Collar, 1949, bronze. Art Smith, 1917-1982, American
Necklace/belt, 1973/74, sterling silver, enamel. Elsa Peretti, American born Italy, 1940
Earrings, glass, rhinestones, metal, 1983/84. Yves St. Laurent, 1936-2008, French
Choker #70, gold, 1985. Mary Lee Ho, born 1943. Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY
Incubus necklace, silver, copper, glass, baroque pearls, human sperm, 1987. Simon Costin, British, born 1963
Sticks and stones and words breastplate, 1992, silver, pencil, erasers, stone, coins, leather, horsehair. Kiff Slemmons, American born 1944
Bracelet, polyester, epoxy, resin, 1995. Peter Chang, 1945-2017, British
Oh I am Precious #7 necklace; mizuhiki (paper cord), canvas, 1986.
Night in the City necklace, 1990, glass and metal beads, PVC, photo and laminated print, synthetic suede, nickel silver on thread, wire and monofilament. Joyce J. Scott, American born 1948
Brooch: Hommage to Cy Twombly and Joseph Cornell, 1994, gold, cloisonne enamel, silver, tourmaline, coral, agate, Mexican opal, pearl. William Harper, American born 1944
Crown of Thorns, 1996/97, silver. Designed by for Shaune Leane, British born 1967 for Alexander McQueen: in memory
Jaw, 1997/98, silver-plated aluminium. Designed by for Shaune Leane, British born 1967 for Alexander McQueen: in memory
Brooch with gold thread and niello, 1999. Giovanni Corvaja, Italian born 1971
Yashmak, aluminium, Swarowski crystal, 2000, edition 2017. Shawn Leane, British born 1969 for Alexander McQueen, British: In memory
Necklace, paper, paint, coal, glue, linen, 2011. Attai Chen, Israeli born 1979