from the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum, New York, Winter 2016
English. Early 18th century tea dress. And detail. I don’t know the details.
Pannier, 1760-1770. Red silk taffeta and red silk velvet ribbon over cane hoops with metal hinges.
Comme des Garcons, Japanese. Red wool-nylon flannel, patent leather, polyester georgette, and cotton lawn. 2015
Iris Van Herpen, Dutch. Black cotton tulle and silk satin embroidered with black silk PVC. 2013/14
English, 1747, and detail; thought to have been worn as a wedding dress. Ivory silk faille brocaded with three types of silver thread.
Black dress: Azzedine Alaia, French born Tunisia, 1940. White acetate knit and black acetate nylon chenille knit, and details. 1994
Ivory dress: ‘La Sirene’, Charles James, American. Ivory silk crepe. 1951-52
Among the pleasures of great cities: the openly expressed flamboyance.
Here in Macy’s, New York, the day before Christmas, 2012, a man acknowledged my admiration, particularly of his colours, because New Yorkers, who have generally seen everything, did not.
Lanvin-Castillo. Light purple nylon tulle, 1958. And detail.
House of Dior. Mystere Coat, autumn/winter of 1947-48, black wool Melton and dark green silk taffeta.
Madeleine Vionnet, French. Pink silk tulle embroidered with pink rayon floss; slip of pink silk gauze and crepe de chine. And detail. 1929
Yohji Yamamoto, Japanese. Cage bustier. Black silk crepe over plastic boning with black cashmere wool jersey. 2006-07.
Yves Saint Laurent, French. Dress: black and red printed red crepe with red vinyl flower. 1971
Thom Browne, American. Jacket and skirt: white silk faille, with applique of black silk faille, dark blue and gray bird’s eye pique, black and white synthetic-cotton chambray and black silk taffeta. 2016
In the grand central hall of the Met, NY on an autumn day in December 2016, the only man to be wearing a coat in any colour other than blacks, greys, and browns and Ralph Lauren dark blue, was this young man.
Do you want me to show my Santa Claus underneath? he asked. Of course, I said. Everything. And why are you slinking away? I asked his companion. They both smiled. She is from out of town, they thought…………….
Coat and waistcoat, black silk faille embroidered with polychrome silk and metallic thread, silver plastic sequins, and clear and iridescent glass beads. 2014/15
Unmistakably Chanel, French. Jacket and dress: pink silk chiffon and trompe l’oeil tweed of white silk organdy embroidered with white silk yarn, pink and pale purple silk thread, and black, clear, pink glass and synthetic beads. 2012-13.
Yohji Yamamoto, Japanese. Natural wood laminate, black wool flannel, and black cotton weave, hinged with silver, metal hardware. 1991/92.
Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen, British. And detail Black silk organza with orange feathers painted with black and white pigment. 2011
Viktor and Rolf, Dutch. Ballgown, 2010. Blue polyester tulle, and black silk synthetic moire embroidered with white plastic sequins.
Balenciaga, French. Nude silk gazar, ivory silk organza, ivory rayon-cotton satin jacquard, and white nylon-rayon lace, embroidered with floral motifs in ivory linen floss. 2006
Jean-Paul Gaultier, French. Dress: white rayon-nylon chenille lace with nude nylon tulle. Skirt: silver-metal chain mail, nude nylon tulle, and light brown silk satin. Headdress: white nylon mesh with silver nylon organza ribbon, ivory kidskin and white steel boning. 2008-09.